INTRODUCTION

We've chosen Oktoberfest as the style of the season. Traditionally brewed in March, then stored in cool caves over the summer, Märzen/Oktoberfest used to refer the the brewing process itself. Over time, though, it was found that some styles of beer seemed to improve with the extended aging process better than others. The soft, clean taste of the Oktoberfest style was one which took to it the best, and the name eventually came to refer to the beer style itself.

Although the style was tradionally brewed in March, most homebrewers are limited to the cooler fall and winter temperatures for their lager brewing. And, with the commercial breweries releasing their seasonal versions of the style, definitive examples of the style are available to us homebrewers for comparison and inspiration.

HISTORY

It was only in the first half of the 19th century that yeast was discovered to be the fourth ingredient in beer. Brewing pioneers Anton Dreher (in Vienna) and Gabriel Sedlmayr (in Munich) are credited with being the first to brew using the bottom-fermenting lager style yeast. By using only the finest strains of barley and hops, as well as the newly-developed technology of refrigeration, these two were able to produce beer of a high enough quality that demand for it stayed high. (This despite the explosion in popularity that the new pale Pilsner-syle beers were enjoying.)

Eventually, in and around Vienna, a lighter-bodied, less alcoholic version of the Oktoberfest style developed popularity. These became known as "Vienna lagers," or lagers in the "Vienna style" and were produced with the same high-quality ingredients that the Oktoberfest beers were, only to a lower starting gravity.

Late in the 19th century, the Oktoberfest style began losing popularity to the upstart pale lagers. The uncompromising standards of quality ingredients that Dreher and Sedlmayr had championed faded after their deaths, and Vienna/Oktoberfest beers soon began their decline. Many brewers from Vienna emigrated to the Americas, where Mexico and the Southwest part of America became a new center for Vienna-style lagers.

A Mexican citizen known as Santiago Graf was able to continue the Vienna tradition, due mostly to his own high quality standards. Unhappy with the quality of American grains and hops, he imported both from Europe to make his Vienna-style lager. He completely dominated his local market by the year 1890, and even today Vienna-style beers survive in Mexico.

The Vienna/Oktoberfest style was yet another near-casualty of Prohibition. The evolution of one industrial style of beer, distinctly American in nature and intentionally marketed that way, crowded out countless breweries and beer styles. Happily, the new homebrewing explosion has helped to revive interest in historical brewing styles, and Oktoberfest beers are among the seasonal styles that are being released by a growing number of commercial breweries.

STYLE DEFINITION

Oktoberfest beers are more toward the malty end of the balance, usually with a few more hops than the Vienna to help round out the balance. They are higher in alcohol, and occasionally a little bit darker in color than the Vienna style. (Fix and Fix, in the AHA Oktoberfest Classic Beer Style book, include a recipe called the "Graf...Vienna" which includes a little bit of black malt to give it a darker color.) Oktoberfests with a "Bavarian touch" lean even a bit more toward the malt end of the balance, and might use a bit less hops as well, to emphasize that sweetness.

Only Noble-type hops are suitable for the delicate hop aroma and flavor in a Vienna or Oktoberfest beer. Tettnang, Styrian Golding, Saaz, are the first that spring to mind. Neither style should be overpowered by aroma hops, but just a small handful would be appropriate.

BREWING PRACTICES

Brewing from Malt Extract:

Our Oktoberfest extract recipe turns out darker than the official Oktoberfest style guidelines would dictate, due to the quarter pound of chocolate malt that is included. It is a recipe that has been in our catalog for many years, though, and we have had so many compliments on it that we decided to leave it as it is. It is very full-bodied, definitely an Oktoberfest with the malty "Bavarian touch".

Brewing from Grains:

For an even more historical glimpse of the brewing process, especially to lean your beer toward the more malty "Bavarian touch" end of the style, consider experimenting with a decoction mash. Decoction mashing used to be a requirement, before thermometers were invented and when malted grain was much lower quality. Any more, it is more of a novelty than a necessity, but beers produced with a decoction mash will give you a sweeter, fuller malt finish.

Decoction mashing is a type of step-mashing, but instead of applying heat or hot water to the entire mash to raise the temperature to the next level, you pull out a bit of the mash (about a third of the grain, with just enough liquid to barely cover the grain) and bring it to a boil before adding it back to the mash kettle.